London Calling

Transiting through Singapore is always hot and steamy, and apparently rather blurry.

In London there was a bit of a disaster as there was a substation fire at Heathrow, so we were diverted to Gatwick and none of the bags kept up with the switch, so all remained in Singapore. We had already booked a place to stay in Chiswick, as there was a requirement to visit Fuller's (we are travelling with the Belco Brewing Collective), so we got a train out there and dumped the bags before setting out to see the area.

Having already been to the tour of Fuller's Brewery and needing a little walkabout after sitting on a plane for hours, I left them to it and went to visit a few arty places. First stop was Chiswick House; a Grade I-listed 18th-century dwelling and pavilion, available for hire as a venue for events and film and television projects (notably Bridgerton, The Great and The Apprentice).

There are currently many renovations - the kitchen garden will reopen to the public in March 2026 and the house in May, later that year. I couldn't go into the house (built between 1726 and 1729; one of the earliest and most important neo-Palladian villas in England created by architect and designer William Kent and his friend and patron, Richard Boyle, the third Earl of Burlington) but I could wander about the gardens. 

My next cultural activity was Hogarth's House, which was very informative, and about which I will write a separate post. 

And then I meandered along the river until I came to the home of the William Morris Society in the Coach House of at Kelmscott House, Hammersmith, which Morris used as his early factory after buying the property in 1878. It is only open 1-4pm, Thursday-Sunday and when we passed it on our Thames Path walk, it wasn't open, so I was very pleased to be able to duck into it this time.  

The William Morris Society was founded in 1955 to share knowledge of the life and works of William Morris amongst members and the wider public. After Morris died, Kelmscott House passed through a few owners until Helena Stephenson moved in and, as a Morris fan, built up a large collection of his work. In 1970 she bequeathed the house to the William Morris Society who took over the basement and former factory space to open it as a museum.

Bust of Mrs Marion Helena Stephenson by Elizabeth Carver, and cotton 'Vine' curtains

The current exhibition is about the society's benefactor and how she arranged to gift the house to them. Helena's collection reflected her appreciation for the preservation of the past and the perpetuation of the legacies of those who came before, foreseeing the value these objects would hold in the future.

St James Wallpaper (1881) printed on distemper

Stained Glass Quarries designed by Philip Webb (1861)

'Bird' was designed specifically for the drawing room at Kelmscott House. Upon visiting Kelmscott House in 1877, Morris wrote that it 'might be made very beautiful by a touch of my art,' and began studying birds as inspiration for his next design. This design was then produced as a double-woven wool textile depicting scrolling foliage with two garden birds, one placed above another on a dark blue background. The tapestry was produced on a hand-driven jacquard loom. 

'Bird' design by William Morris

Downstairs is the library space with books of patterns and fabrics, and here is the library's greatest treasure: the 200-year-old printing press that was used to print the Kelmscott Press edition of Chaucer, Morris's last great creation. A video shows how the printing press would have been used, and some examples of their printed works are on display. 

I met up with the rest of our group, and we walked back to our accommodation through the rain for a nap. I love how London is full of sculpture on every corner including this piece, commissioned by the London City Council in 1958, designed to compensate the people of Hammersmith for the enlargement of the Great West Road. 

Dr Karel Vogel arrived in Britain from Prague in 1938. His pre-war work was conventionally classical, but like other artists of the time he began experimenting with industrial materials. The Leaning Woman, a semi-nude idealised figure nearly twice life size, was cast in concrete around a metal armature. Her arms rest lightly on an absent surface, and her weight is cantilevered from the base. From this angle it looks as though she is clinging to a lamppost which may lessen the effect somewhat. Her floating appearance is meant to link her surroundings 'in neo-classical calm with the swiftness of the fast modern world'. It was one of Vogel's final works and took a year to complete. 

The Leaning Woman by Dr Karel Vogel (1959)

In the evening, we stirred ourselves to walk out to the pub for a pint and then back to bed ready for the next day. 

Christ Church Turnham Green

The next morning involved a taxi all the way back to Gatwick to collect our bags, which had now arrived, and then rushing back to London St Pancras International Station to take our seats on the Eurostar to Ghent. We were not travelling first class, so we did not get to experience the lounge, but how great are those lamps?

Pre-travel meal

Preparing to go overseas again means there is not much else happening this week in photographs, but here is some tapas we had at Herbert's. You're welcome.

Ocean Therapy

Because it is often what I need in times of sadness, we headed to the ocean to the weekend, and stayed in an apartment in Huskisson. I like neatly-made-up rooms where I don't have to do the washing, cleaning or any other housekeeping.

First things first; get an ice-cream (we're on holiday!) and walk in the waves. Walking down the main street (Owen Street), we passed this cute little cinema, and a plaque from the Huskisson History Walk, which told us a little bit about the town. 

"The settlement grew around shipbuilding and timber yards which were supported by small family businesses. Tourists were also part of the village economy and facilities included the Husky Pub, Avoca Guest House where visitors to the area were accommodated and Bessie Stuart's tea rooms where guests and other people in town could eat. Older residents also report that there was a billiard hall, a shooting gallery, a roller skating rink, a barber and a snake charmer. It was a desirable and attractive place to visit."

It was a bit overcast, but still a "desirable and attractive place to visit."

Walking to the brewery we passed this hedge of bright berries - they are very pretty but probably toxic, so, with mother's voice in my head, I looked but didn't touch. 

We also walked through these woods, with the charming stands of trees, that appeal to the (extremely) latent orienteer in me.

And so we arrived at our first destination, Flaming Galah. It was cocktail hour, so we had a few of those, before progressing to beers, in a civilised sort of manner. 

On the way back I noticed this sculpture, which I quite like. 

We were booked into dinner at Wildginger, an 'Asian fusion' restaurant which was a little bit flash, and very nice. I learned that Nem Pla Prik (or Prik Nam Pla) is a Thai dipping condiment made with fish sauce, lime, garlic and chillies. I also learned that the braised beef cheeks are one of the best things I have tasted in a long time.

Salt and pepper squid

Steamed Ocean Perch with Penang curry, sugar snaps and nem pla prik

Braised Beef Cheeks with green beans, Thai basil, nem pla prik, green curry and cocounut cream 

I'm not saying it's all about the food, but... here are some photos from the fabulous Salty Joe's cafe, where we went for breakfast.

Lentil and Potato Fritters with smoked salmon, house made chilli jam served with rocket, courgette and pine nut salad

Maple and Pecan Granola with cranberries, almonds and pepitas topped with vanilla breakfast pannacotta and mascerated berries

And then we went for a walk to take in multiple beaches: Greenfield; Chinaman's; Hyman's; Blenheim. 

Scribbly Gum Track

Because we're on holiday

...with gravy

The next day we went on a dolphin-watching cruise on the harbour. We saw dolphins and they were fun and fabulous but I didn't take any photos: one, because I was afraid I might drop my phone overboard, and two, because camera-phone photos of fast-moving animals are usually bobbins. I did take some of the scene and the slower-moving animals, however. 

We returned to shore for breakfast burgers.

And we went out to visit the lighthouse at Point Perpendicular. It was built during 1898, constructed of pre-cast concrete blocks using aggregate of local stone, and was the first lighthouse in New South Wales to be constructed using this method. The completed lightstation included the lighthouse, head keeper's residence, duplex cottage for assistant keepers, signal house, flagstaff, post office, stables and outbuildings, a jetty and a fuel store. 

The keepers' houses are solid Victorian single-story dwellings with low-hipped roofs (originally terracotta tiles), cast iron verandah columns and underground rainwater tanks. The formal Victorian buildings and their spectracular setting atop the cliffs creates a dramatic contrast.

The light was converted to electricity in 1964 with the installation of twin diesel alternators on the former stables. With electrification the number of keepers was reduced to two. 

In 1993 Australian Maritime Safety Authority erected a steel frame tower with an unmanned, automatic solar-powered light to replace the original lighthouse. The last keeper left. The lighthouse reserve was then transferred to the Department of Defence. 

The original lighthouse is operated annually to celebrate International Lights and Lightships Weekend.

Another walk; another beach. 

And another visit to a brewery with fantastic beer and dodgy artwork.

Beers at Jervis Bay Brewing Co.

So many questions about this painting with its slight George Seurat's Sunday on La Grande Jatte vibe, to be explored in another post.

Dinner at the Taj Indian Restaurant in Huskisson was an exceptional experience with great food and service. 

Samosa Chaat

The final morning on the coast was Canberra Day so we had a leisurely walk and breakfast, before setting off back to the town in question.

Happy Canberra Day from Him Outdoors

Pecan granola, boysenberry ripple panna cotta, strawberries, bronze fennel

Sweetcorn fritters, togarashi dressing, myoshi, sesame, shiso