The Inner Hebrides Part One: Jura

After the windy, bumpy ferry ride deposited us at Craighouse in Jura, we checked into our hotel, caught our breath, and headed to the distillery - it was directly opposite the hotel so of course we did! 

It might look slightly ominous, but that's just the sky

The room's soft furnishings are a welcome change from ubiquitous tartan

Jura's main man, looking much happier than I suspect he really was

At the distillery we got chatting to the staff: a young lad and a lass who had run the Jura fell race (although he was wearing the t-shirt). He has been away to university and graduated in video game development (that's a degree now?) but he doesn't want to pursue that; he'd rather do marketing. He has a Facebook page called Jura Chronicles, which is well worth a look. His family have lived on the island for four centuries: crofting, working on the estates, and at the distillery since it existed. His contract with the distillery expires next month, but will he stay? It's a quandary. 

For more info on the whisky itself (or the ones we drank at least), I wrote a separate blog - so go here if that sort of thing interests you.

We then drove up to the end of the road to Lussa Gin. The road was single track with passing places, and we were greeted with windswept vistas of lighthouses and rainbows, while stags and deer kept their watchful eyes upon us. I have managed to get the Spotify stuck on Bluetooth so whenever the car starts up, it plays The Dashing White Sergeant, but this somehow feels appropriate. 

One may say there aren't too many things that history and science have in common, but they do share a prediction for 'explaining' things with, "we don't know why...'. Take standing stones - well, you can't because they're generally very heavy, which is part of the issue. When the first settlers arrived in Scotland over 10,000 years ago, they began to erect incredible monuments, some of which can still be seen today (Orkney and Shetland have a particularly prevalent number).

The Visit Scotland site 'explains', "The purpose of these stones is a puzzle that modern day archaeologists can only speculate over; these ancient sites may forever remain shrouded in mystery. Many sites are believed to have been used for religious or ceremonial purposes."

A necessary beacon

Tarbert - yes, another one (see previous blog) 

Paps of Jura in mist and rain

Georgina met us at the distillery door of Lussa Gin (we had phoned ahead and asked if we could visit). We weren't allowed inside while distilling was in progress, but she was happy to chat. She talked about the fifteen botanicals in the gin, one of which is oris root - it is grown for three years and then dried for three years before it can be used. Researchers at Heriot-Watt University are trying to find a quicker process.

She told us there are enough jobs on Jura; just not enough accommodation. Neither the bus driver nor the school teacher have houses. If the school roll call falls below eight then the school will be closed and the families move away (it currently has nine pupils). For these reasons she really dislikes the fact that people have second houses on Jura which they use for two weeks a year, while locals don't have a home. I'm sure I've heard this argument before. 

The very unassuming exterior of the island's only gin distillery

Deceptively blue sky at Ardlussa (it was freezing and about to hail)

Georgina with her still

Some of the many home-grown botanicals for the gin

We went for a walk on Corran Sands - a wild and pebbly beach, and found a sonic playground with a permanent installation of a batphone and a xylophone. Him Outdoors displayed his musical ability. As we walked along the desolate shore, a dog-walker approached us. He removed his headphones and told us he was listening to the latest Nick Cave album. I believe this is probably a perfect atmosphere for it. 

Him Outdoors doing a music

The path to Corran Sands 

Back at the hotel we were treated to a magnificent rainbow (yes, I'm sure it was laid on just for us...) so we sat by the rain-streaked window of the pub to watch it with a gin and tonic, and a hearty meal.

 

Scallops with bacon, pine nut and parmesan salad

Le Bogtrotter Burger (wild Jura venison burger; black pudding; melted brie; red onion relish)

Obviously, after all that, it was time for bed and a deep sleep. The next morning started with more black pudding (and haggis) along with the usual sausage, bacon and egg, before setting off on a drive to start our walk. Once more we were watched by the red deer, and we stopped frequently to listen to their roars echoing around the hills. The word 'Jura' is believed to come from the Norse, deer island, and apparently the island now supports a deer population of 7,000. Here are some of them. 

As we set off on our walk, a group of men in a 4WD drove past and offered us a lift - we declined, explaining that we were out for a walk, and they checked that we were sticking to the path, away from their guns: walking and stalking don't mix.

We did, indeed, stick to the road until we reached Barnhill, past little streams, bracken-clad hills and stone walls and bridges.  

Of course the sign has been modified

Lovely peaty water on its way to becoming whisky

Barnhill is where Eric Blair (aka George Orwell) wrote 1984 in 1948. It is a bleak place, miles from anywhere, on a windswept, rain-soaked island with no electricity, smoking peat fires and condensation running down the walls. His doctors sent him here because they thought it might help with his TB. How, exactly? 

He embarked upon a boat trip and the motor died, so he and his son rowed into the Corryvreckan whirlpool where the boat capsized. (If you want to imagine how terrifying that would be, watch this video and think of the boat as a lot smaller and without an engine.) I'm pretty sure this wasn't the actual plan, but it was the reality, and he 'recuperated' by sitting in bed writing one of my favourite novels ever. He said to his publisher that he might have written a better book if he hadn't been so ill, and died shortly thereafter.

Barnhill - 'tis a silly place

The walk takes us right down to the sea and around the bays, but, although I looked very hard, I didn't see any otters. I did see mosses and lichens and spectacular trees.

And then the path disappeared and we bog basjhed our way through to the top end of Jura, tripping through heather and reeds and falling into peat bogs and marshes. It was very tough-going and utterly exhausting. And very wet.

Still feeling 'Fyne'

We marched back to the car in the pouring rain and drove back to the hotel to dry out. After a half hour soak in the bath and a few stiff drams, I was feeling almost human again. We had dinner in the bar (I am determined to eat as much fish as possible on this holiday) and then an early night, falling asleep deliciously quickly. 

Pan-friend halibut and garlic prawns on a green lentil, broccolini and sesame salad

The next day started with a kipper for breakfast and then a visit to the art gallery. The photographer/ gallery owner was on holiday, so the lady at the craft shop opened up and left us in there, telling us to drop the key back when we'd finished - everyone here is lovely and trusting. 

It started with a kipper

Craighouse

Knockrome Library

I heard tell of a lighthouse, so we set out to see it. We walked through Inver Estate which comprises 9,000 acres including a cattle herd and a deer farm. The Highland Cattle herd was started in 1949, and Inver bred females have twice won the Supreme Champion at the pedigree show held every year in Oban. The Inver wild deer herd numbers just over 500; for management purposes the whole of South Jura is counted annually in the spring, and about a fifth of the herd is culled each season. 

We were treated to great views of the Paps - as it was not actually raining! - and we also saw sea eagles, golden eagles and peregrine falcons. 

Highland coos!

Now, don't laugh, but this lighthouse (the only lighthouse on Jura) is solar powered. yes, really. 

Carragh An't Struith Lighthouse

The west coast of Jura has many raised beaches, formed by a combination of tectonic coastal uplift and Quaternary Ice Age sea level fluctuation. Relative sea levels were at their highest around 15,000 years ago in Scotland, so these beaches have been progressively stranded since then.

Him Outdoors sunbathing, Scottish style

Deer on Inver Estate

We walked back to the car and caught the ferry back to Islay for the next phase.