Thursday, July 5, 2018

Scenic Oregon

When I told my brother where we were going he told me to be certain to go to Boring, twin-towned with Dull in Scotland. I assumed he was joking, but apparently not. So, just for you, brother mine...


After we had exhausted the hilarity of the photographs, there wasn't a lot else to do, so we continued along the scenic highway, with sensational views of Mt Hood (called Wy'east by the Multnomah People). It is one of the potentially active volcanoes in the Cascade Volcanic Arc, and it is spectacular. 


  

We headed up to Timberline Lodge for more scenic views. There are six ski areas on Mount Hood, with Timberline offering the only year-round lift-served skiing in North America.


Timberline Lodge is a fabulous-looking building, and a National Historic Landmark. It has frequently been used as filming location, most recently in the 2014 feature film, Wild, but perhaps most notably in the 1980 film, The Shining, in which it stands in for the fictional Overlook Hotel in Stanley Kubrick's adaptation of the Stephen King novel. 


It was constructed between 1936 and 1938 as a Works Progress Administration Project during the Great Depression. About 100 construction workers were on site at any given time, and they lived in a nearby tent city. Jobs were rotated to provide work to as any of the unemployed as possible.


Recycled materials were used to keep costs down. The ground-level exterior walls are heavy rubble masonry, using boulders from the immediate area, and heavy timber is used from the first floor up. Women wove draperies, upholstery and bedspreads, and hooked rugs were made from old Civilian Conservation Corps camp blankets.

Fireplace screens were fashioned from tyre chains. Andirons and other iron work was forged from old railroad tracks. Discarded cedar utility poles became newel posts with their crowns hand-carved into birds, bears and seals.



 

The WPA Interior designer insisted upon three themes for the lodge - Native American motif, pioneer and native flora and fauna, which were to be incorporated in every aspect down to the furniture and artwork. The effort to use native materials and to repurpose other materials stemmed from the Arts and Crafts Movement of the early 20th Century.



We had a drink in the bar and watched England beat Colombia on penalties to advance to the quarter-finals of the World Cup. This was shaping up to be a great day. It only got better when we walked around Trillium Lake with its picturesque mountain reflections. 

Mt Hood seen from Trillium Lake

"I found it particularly ironic, My Lord, because I've got a thingy that's shaped like a..."



We said a fond farewell to Lake Trillium and continued on our merry way to Bend, passing the striking Mt Jefferson en route.


We were staying in Bend overnight. Even as we arrived I knew that one night would not feel like enough. This is a beautiful town and I fell a little bit in love with it and its environs. This is definitely a place to which I would like to return. And a river runs through it.

The Deschutes River in Bend, Oregon

It has a wonderful relaxing feeling, and we strolled around the streets at dusk, admiring the houses which all looked like homes.


People gathered at food vans to eat and drink and gossip.


We joined in this eating and drinking lark, with a visit to Sunriver Brewing Company. I had the wonderfully-named Vicious Mosquito IPA (slight dank aroma; pineapple upfront; grapefruit hit to follow; bitter finish that lingers but doesn't outstay its welcome) and the Chieftain Scotch Ale, which tastes of boozy molasses. The food was excellent (the picture doesn't do it justice) and I had basically had a bowl of vegetables, which I end up craving whenever I come to America.


We walked back to our lodgings via another brewery, Bend Brewing Company, which lured us in siren-like to try its wares. We tasted the Big Bad Russian (big and strong and a hint of amaretto) and the Bigly Barleywine - great name; great beer: superb finish to a great day. 


The next day we were up not so bright but fairly early for a jog along the Deschutes River Trail.

 

There are meant to be otters in the river: this is the only one I saw. 



We had breakfast and walked around the Old Mill District, admiring the local artwork and designer recyclables. 


The large steel wheels in this sculpture once ran the bandsaw or head rig in the Brooks Scanlon Lumber Mill, formerly on this site. Cut marks on the wheels show where the saw blade broke and cut into the steel. The title of the sculpture refers to the loggers who worked at the mill. They once wore spiked soled boots called 'caulks' or 'corks' and, in an effort to keep their floors intact, restaurants, taverns and retailers posted signs, 'No Caulks Allowed' on their front doors.

No Caulks Allowed by Roger Fox (2001)

The Tin Pan Alley Art Collection is part of Bend's innovative approach to blending support for local arts and culture with the splendour of Bend's outdoor lifestyle. The reasoning behind these public works of art located outdoors is that 'Fresh air is good for all of us, right? We figure the same holds true for art. Admit it, this piece looks livelier dappled in sunlight or shimmering with snowflakes... And by the way, you look pretty good outside too.'

According to the artist statment, 'Riparian was inspired by the vibrant hues of Bend's sunsets, the meandering calm of the Deschutes River, and the energy that emits from the shops and restaurants that line the river along the Old Mill. This piece embodies the natural and manmade synergy between one of the city's most dynamic riparian areas.' (A riparian zone or area is the interface between land and a river or stream. I looked it up. You're welcome.)

Riparian by Sarah Helen More

I think this next piece is adorable. The artists write, 'You Have No Idea How Much You Mean To People was created with lino block print, graphite, compressed charcoal, acrylic paint, and metallic media. As a collaborative team and twin sisters, we're sensitive to how interconnected we are and how much we all rely on community. Through social media, we requested people's words of aspiration, and incorporated them into our depiction of a neighbourhood, creating a global community representing our universal voice of optimism.'

You Have No Idea How Much You Mean To People by the Lubbesmeyer Twins

This free solar-powered charging station is not exactly a sculpture, but it is typical of the Bend mentality.



In February, Bend celebrates the Oregon WinterFest with three days of live music, food and wine, and local events: fun runs; wine walks; rail jams; frisbee dog routines; ice sculptures and fire pits. Every year a Fire King and Ice Queen are crowned as honourable citizens who 'do good in the community'. There is a throne for each of them, although this suggestion that it burns every year is a touch disturbing in a Wicker Man sort of way. But it seemed like such a nice place...


Bend is super proud of its sustainable energy and green businesses. As one would expect, there are a whole heap of shops selling outdoor equipment and locally-made products such as dried meats and reusable water bottles. The mission statement from the Bend-based company Hydro Flask is to 'save the world from lukewarm - no matter the beverage'. 


I may have neglected to mention it is The Fourth of July, and people are everywhere, riding their bikes (there is a controversial 'Freedom Ride' which is not organised and no roads are closed, but thousands of people turn up to ride in costume - or not), floating on the river, proudly displaying their colours, and walking their dogs. There is an annual pet parade, where animals of all shapes and sizes got to sniff each other and otherwise socialise. Mostly dogs are featured, but there are also pythons, pigs, cats, ducks, and I saw (from a respectable distance) a pet skunk. 

A Freedom Rider in Bend

Places to go; people to see... We reluctantly had to leave and we headed on towards Klamath Falls, where we had booked to stay for the night before our trip to Crater Lake. If I were to do this again, I would have stayed at Bend for another evening and simply made the journey from there.

I fear that after such a beautiful town (have I mentioned that I liked Bend), anywhere else was going to be a bit of a disappointment. There was, however, a lake, a brewery, and some fireworks opposite our motel which were watched by individuals who sat on the roof of their pick-up trucks and then drove away alone. 

Upper Klamath Lake

51st State Pale Ale by Klamath Basin Brewing

No comments:

Post a Comment