Celebrations

Yes, I am working my way through the pile of bedside books, and no, it doesn't look like it because I keep adding more. 

Bedside books at the beginning of December

I work for The Smith Family who are celebrating their centenary next year. There is an entire year of activities planned as the organisation recognises their team members, partners, volunteers, and, of course, the families they have supported over the years. And, as we know, nothing says celebrations like cake. 

 

Of course, the other thing that says celebration is champagne. We had booked a champagne dinner with The Lovely Bonkers around the time of my birthday but it was postponed, what with one thing and another. Fortunately it was rescheduled for around the time of Mrs Lovely Bonkers' birthday, so we still had an anniversary to celebrate.

Run by the company Emperor, and delivered by Kyla Kirkpatrick (The Champagne Dame), the event was held at QT in Canberra in a room on the 14th floor, affording some great aerial views of the city. 

 

The dinner was presented as a 'flight', which is when all the wine is from the same provider. In this case it was from the house of Louis Roederer, one of the remaining independently-owned champagne houses. The champagne was matched with food and anecdotes, but it was definitely all about the bubbles.

We began with Sydney rock oysters, smoked salmon rosti and zucchini flowers, all matched with Blanc de Blancs 2014, a pure, taut, fine and bright wine. The blurb indicates that there are delicate hints of honeysuckle and jasmine, followed by iodised, sea-breeze aromas, combined with the warm, sweet notes of freshly-baked pastries. For once I agree with the tasting notes, and I definitely picked up the floral, honey zest followed by a saline character and a fresh limestone finish. 

Our next course was 'alternating' king prawns and Vanella Burrata (a fresh, Italian cheese, made from mozzarella and fresh cream). When 'alternating' is used on a menu, it means that people sitting next to each other get served different dishes. While this can lead to experimentation and sharing, it can also lead to arguments and plate envy. We are adults; guess which one we did?

The accompanying champagne was Collection 242. This is the first time that Louis Roederer (and potentially any champagne house) is phasing out their iconic Brut Premier, to lead with their new Collection Series instead. The reasoning is that, with climate change affecting the ripeness of the grapes, it is difficult to reproduce the same wine each season, so why try? The new method will be a blend of 56% base wine (the 242 is from the 2017 vintage), 34% perpetuelle reserve wines (from 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016) and 10% Roederer reserve wine (from young vines planted on chalky soil, used to make the Cristal - more of which later) aged in oak. It's called 242 because it's the 242nd blend of the house since its establishment in 1776. 

It is very fine with vivid, fresh fruit aromas and a defined minerality combined with white florals, citrus zest and a distinct chalkiness. It is Chardonnay-dominant in profile (as are all my favourites) displaying characteristics of ripe lemon, Williams pear and red apple, with a toasty backdrop and hints of peppery spice from the oak. It's delicious and (at $93 a bottle), the cheapest wine of the night.

Vanella Burrata

King Prawns

Our main course was free-range pork with apple 'alternating' with grass-fed sirloin. I preferred the pork, but then I don't get the antipodean adoration of steak. The accompanying wine for this course was the Vintage 2014 - nothing too different, but a sensational champagne with all the fruit and toasty complexity that makes this stuff so special.

Free-range pork with apple

Grass-fed sirloin

And so to the main event: the Cristal. Beloved of rappers and a symbol of decadence, this stuff is $400+ per bottle and has a sublime reputation. The story goes that it was first made for Tsar Alexander II who requested a wine at "the absolute pinnacle of quality" in 1876. Done. 

Because he was paranoid about being poisoned, he asked for the bottle to be clear (leaded crystal was originally used). Done. However, to prevent the UV light penetration from adversely affecting the wine (the reason bottles are usually dark green) it is wrapped in Lucozade-like cellophane, which, although it is meant to signify gold, rather lessens the impression. 

Tsar Alexander II also requested that the punt (the deep indent at the base of the bottle, which is there to provide the extra strength in accordance with the pressure built up through secondary fermentation) be replaced with a flat bottom to prevent bombs from being hidden it. Done. The reinforced glass necessary to withstand the pressure makes the bottle particularly heavy.

Incidentally, he could be excused this paranoia as half of the previous Tsars had been assassinated. Indeed, despite all his caution, he was himself blown up in 1881 after six previous assassination attempts. 

The champagne is delightful. It is made from the fruit of selected vines (which must be at least 25 years old) and cellar-aged for six months before dégorgement. Its palate is bold and powerful packed with stone fruit (nectarine and yellow plums), with candied orange and hazelnut. The elegant chalky notes and finely textured tannins add complexity and the finish is subtly saline. Would I pay for that again? Probably not. Did I thoroughly enjoy it at the time? You bet!

Him Outdoors with about $50-worth of Cristal

The other antipodean obsession I don't get is pavlova. I know Aussies and Kiwis like to fight over who invented it, but it's just meringue, isn't it? The Christmas pudding, however, was delicious with more than a hint of ginger in the spice mix set off perfectly with the sour cherries. 

I suppose these are festive desserts from either side of the world, but they both matched wonderfully with the Vintage Rosé 2014. The light pink colour suggests a party, which continues through the wild berry and spicy zest aromas, to the fresh pink grapefruit and blood orange flavours. The finish is smooth and full of character. 

The Cellar Master, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, describes it thus: "A characteristic Roederer rosé: the concentration, fruitiness, and compactness of the Cumières Pinot Noir grapes are transcended by the elegance, purity, and freshness of the finest Chardonnay grapes cultivated on the Côte des Blancs." But then, he would say that, wouldn't he?

My dessert is looking at me!

Christmas Pudding with sour cherries

For my birthday, I requested a street library. So Him Outdoors has assembled me one and painted it in Liverpool FC colours, poured a concrete foundation and mounted it on a pole. Today I got to put some books in and open it for business. The whole thing is terribly exciting, or exhausting, depending on your viewpoint.